On a very hot day in July we left the air-conditioned comfort of our car and, along with several coach loads of tourists, struggled up a big hill to the town of San Gimignano perched on the top. The town is famous for its towers, of which there used to be many, but now only 14 of the original 76 remain. Built as symbols of their owner’s wealth, they were the 13th century’s equivalent of a man buying a faster sports car than his neighbour. But that was not why we were there. We were there to taste the wine. But only after a granita to cool us down.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano growing in the fields below the town.

The town is not very big but the fact that it appears in every guidebook about Tuscany means that there are lots of visitors, and unfortunately all the shops are…